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Engine Oil Change (Perodua Axia)

In progressbeginner
30 minutes~RM 60parts only · as of Oct 26, 20267 steps
Drain the oil warm, never hot. Hot oil burns
This job needs a jack and stands. Never go under a car held up by a jack alone
Take the used oil to a workshop or a recycling point. Do not pour it down a drain

Tools required: Socket Wrench · Oil Filter Wrench · Oil Drain Pan · Jack and Stands

Steps

1

Warm the engine for a few minutes

Tip: Three to five minutes. The three-cylinder warms fast, so do not leave it idling longer than that
2

Jack the car and put it on stands

Warning: No stands? A workshop does this for RM120 to RM220. The Axia is light, which makes a jack-only slip worse, not safer
3

Set the pan and undo the sump plug

Tip: 14mm socket, anticlockwise. Keep the plug and washer in a cup
4

Remove the old filter and let it drain

Warning: Oil spills when the filter comes off. Rags underneath save the driveway
5

Fit the new filter by hand only

Tip: Oil the gasket, seat it, three quarters of a turn. No wrench
6

Refit the plug and fill with the correct grade

Warning: Do not overtighten the plug. The sump is aluminium and the thread strips easily
Tip: Grade and fill volume are in the owner's manual. Add most of the oil, then read the dipstick before the rest
7

Run it, then check for leaks and top up

Tip: Two minutes at idle, shut off, wait five minutes, read the dipstick

The Axia is cheap to service and the oil change is the cheapest part of it. Perodua’s own interval is 10,000km or six months, whichever lands first. Do not stretch it because the car feels fine. Small three-cylinder engines are hard on their oil in town traffic.

What a workshop charges

Doing it yourself costs the oil and a filter. A workshop charges RM120 to RM220 for the same job with labour on a compact car. A service centre sits near the top of that, a neighbourhood workshop near the bottom. Prices checked 2026-10-26, from Malaysian 10,000km service price guides.

The parts are a small share of that bill. You are mostly paying for labour and for someone else to deal with the used oil.

What to check afterwards

  • Cardboard under the sump overnight. A fresh drip means the plug or the filter gasket is not seated.
  • Dipstick between MIN and MAX, five minutes after shutdown.
  • Oil light out within a second of a cold start.
  • Grade and litres named on the invoice.
  • The next interval written on the sticker or the invoice.

When to stop

A plug that will not move, a filter that will not come off, or a car that rocks on the stands. Stop and hand it over. On a light car the stands can shift if you lean on the wrong panel, so check them again before you go under.