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Engine Oil Change (Perodua Myvi)

Coverage reviewedbeginner
30 minutes~RM 70parts only · as of Oct 26, 20267 steps
Drain the oil warm, never hot. Hot oil burns
This job needs a jack and stands. Never go under a car held up by a jack alone
Take the used oil to a workshop or a recycling point. Do not pour it down a drain

Tools required: Socket Wrench · Oil Filter Wrench · Oil Drain Pan · Jack and Stands

Steps

1

Warm the engine for a few minutes

Tip: Three to five minutes. Warm oil drains faster and takes more of the old dirt with it
2

Jack the car up and support it on stands

Warning: No jack and stands? A workshop does this for RM120 to RM220. Do not work under a jack alone
3

Set the pan under the sump and undo the plug

Tip: 14mm socket, turn anticlockwise. Keep the plug and washer in a cup for refitting
4

Take the old filter off and let it drain

Warning: Oil spills out of the filter housing. Rags under the car save your driveway
5

Fit the new filter by hand

Tip: Oil the rubber gasket, seat it, then three quarters of a turn more. No wrench
6

Refit the plug and fill with 5W-30

Warning: Do not overtighten the plug. The sump is aluminium and the thread strips easily
Tip: 1.5L takes 3.7L. 1.3L takes 3.3L. Add most of it, check the dipstick, then top up
7

Run it, then check for leaks and top up

Tip: Two minutes at idle, then off. Look for drips under the car and read the dipstick after five minutes

Oil changes are the cheapest thing you can do for a Dual VVT-i engine, and the interval matters more than the brand on the bottle. Perodua’s own oil is 5W-30 semi-synthetic, which is what the Myvi fluids page lists.

What a workshop charges

Doing it yourself costs the oil and a filter. A workshop charges RM120 to RM220 for the same job with labour on a compact car. Our Myvi service table puts the 10,000km oil service at RM170, which sits inside that band. Prices checked 2026-10-26.

A service centre will be at the top of the band. A small workshop with a drum of 5W-30 will be near the bottom. Both are fine as long as the grade matches.

What to check afterwards

  • Cardboard under the sump overnight. A fresh drip means the plug or the filter gasket is not seated.
  • Dipstick between MIN and MAX, five minutes after shutdown.
  • Oil light out within a second of a cold start.
  • The invoice names the grade and the litres that went in.
  • Next change at 10,000km or six months, whichever comes first.

When to stop

A plug that will not move, a filter that will not come off, or a car that does not feel planted on the stands. All three mean stop and hand it over. The money saved does not cover a stripped sump.

Is it worth doing yourself?

On this car, barely. You save a couple of hours of a Saturday and spend part of it driving four litres of used oil to a recycling point. The labour you are avoiding is the smallest line on the bill, so most owners are better off watching the workshop do it and keeping the receipt.